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I however, wanted to make sure that the swap ran perfectly once I got it running so I picked up a few general maintenance things as well, such as a new distributor cap and rotor, new water pump, new spark plug wires, and a new valve cover gasket. 0 is comparable to a full Z6 swap, but remember this included a new timing belt, head gasket, etc. However, you will need a torque wrench so that you can torque the head bolts down correctly, and you will also need access to an air wrench when you do your timing belt to get the crank pulley off. Remove the water bypass hose from the thermostat housing. reattach all of the various sensors, timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines, and whatnot to the new head.List of Parts: Required: D16Z6 Cylinder Head (Including distributor cap, valve cover, plugs/wires, VTEC solenoid, etc) D16Z6 or D16Y8 Head Gasket P28 ECU D16Z6 Timing Belt Wire and plug for VTEC oil pressure switch Optional: D16Z6 Intake Manifold D16Z6 Exhaust Manifold *If you remove your manifolds, make sure you get new gaskets Recommended: NEW OEM- Water Pump (for the block you are using) Spark Plugs (EX D16Y Spark Plug Wires Valve Cover Gasket Distributor cap and rotor I spent about 0 total when all was said and done. You will also need wire cutters, and some electrical tape for the wiring part. Okay, I got all of the parts and tools, now how do I swap the heads? Also, at this time, replace the P2E ECU with the P2P from the EX trim level civic.Note also: The D16Z6 and D15B7 spark plug wires are NOT interchangeable. Remove the PCV hose, then remove the cylinder head cover. If you get shavings in the cylinders, then fill the cylinders with warm soapy water and float the shavings out. Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket but do not tighten them yet (optional, I decided not to do this because the intake manifold bracket is a bitch to get to) 6. Remove the A/C compressor adjust pulley with bracket and the belt (with A/C), then remove the alternator belt. unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay 5. double-check to make sure nothing else is still attached to the head, and then remove it from the block now make sure the block is nice and clean, and if you are going to replace your internals like me, this is the time to do it, just drop the oil pan, and remove the rod bolts and pop the pistons out of the top of the block.You will need D16Z6 spark plug wires with this swap. Remove the throttle control cable from the throttle body (A/T only). Remove the fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the cylinder head and intake manifold (Basically any hose or plug that’s connected to the intake manifold or head, needs to come off) 10. You’ll do this by turning the crank over a few times with a 17mm until all the water is out. Install the intake manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nuts. Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nut. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps, working your way from the inside bolts to the outside bolts. Install the exhaust pipe A on the exhaust manifold. Tighten the bolts for intake manifold bracket (again, optional) 9. After the installation, check that all the tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly. oh yeah, next time you hear someone talk about the bottom end of a d-series being unstable, take off the oil pan of a y7 and you'll notice a solid piece of aluminum, at least 3 inches wide tying the main caps together.
93 Si D16Z6 5sp-------P08-4 (9/3) stamped on rs of head 93 EX D16Z6 5spd----- P08-4 93 EX D16Z6 5sp-------P08-3 94 EX D16z6 5 spd---- PO8-2 94 Si D16z6 5sp-------- P08-3 94 EX D16Z6 5sp--------P08-4 94 SI D16z6 5sp -------P08-5 95 EX D16Z6 Auto------P08-2 D16Y4 96 GLi D16Y4 5sp........ Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on top, TDC marks should align with cylinder head upper surface or TDC groove should align with pointer on back cover.pic below Step 2.. Tighten lock nut to spec and recheck valve adjustment..I will do a complete walkthrough of the mini-me, including a shopping list of parts, tools needed, how to perform the swap, important things to look out for, what to expect when you finish, and ideas for future modifications.These instructions are for 92-95 Civic D15B7 DX, LX mini-me’s, but most of the stuff can be applied to CX’s with pistons with reliefs for 4 valves as well. A “mini-me” is an informal name for a D-Series SOHC VTEC head mated to a D-Series SOHC non-VTEC block. I chose to do a mini-me swap after reading up on them and hearing that they put out a fair amount of power for how cheap they are.Also, the 96-00 Civic EX’s have a 9.6:1 compression ratio, so the spark plugs from that motor will better with the higher compression than the stock Z6 ones. You can use your stock intake and exhaust manifolds with the mini-me. However, both the D16Z6 intake manifold and header flow much better than the D15’s…so if you can pick them up for a real cheap price, then definitely go for it. Disconnect spark plug wires at spark plugs and remove them from the distributor. Remove the engine ground cable on the cylinder head cover. Remove the power steering belt and pump (Do NOT disconnect the hoses) 13. Remove the emission vacuum hoses and water bypass hoses from intake manifold assembly (included in step 9) 15. Remove the self locking nuts and disconnect the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe A. Make sure that there is NO liquid in the cylinders or head bolt holes when you put the head back on (If there is, you can crack your block when you torque down the head bolts). I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams): NOTE: -You can reuse your D15B7 head bolts with the D16Z6 swap…they are the same size -Always use a new head gasket -If you are using your old intake manifold with the new head, make sure you use a new intake manifold gasket, same goes for throttle body. -Cylinder head and engine block surface must be clean (no water or dirt…even in the head bolt holes) -Turn the crankshaft so that No. PUTTING THE NEW HEAD BACK ON: FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position. spray the y8 head gasket with copper spray and put it in position, then replace the two spacers in the block. lay the head on the block carefully, making sure everything goes on smoothly 3.
In addition to the main things, you’ll need little things, coolant and wire (to wire the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure to the ECU). Well, 95% of the job can be done with a 3/8 inch ratchet, 10-19mm sockets, and a set of screwdrivers. Remove the fuel feed hose and charcoal canister hose from the intake manifold. Remove the radiator upper hose and heater hose from the cylinder head (included in step 9) 16. If you are using the manifolds from your stock motor, all you’ll need to do is unbolt your intake manifold (with throttle body) off of your old head so that you are ready to put it on the Z6 head. torque the head bolts following the factory sequence 4.Alright first what you’re gonna need to do is remove the cylinder head. Also be sure to refill the motor with the proper amount of oil and coolant.